Which Nation is the Most Pagan?

Trees give clues

A.H. Starlingsson
From my Forest
Published in
3 min readAug 15, 2014

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The definition is loose, but recognisable. In Europe ‘Pagan’ symbolises pre-Christian’ as a concept, and accordingly, late arrivals to Christianity often retain the most Pagan element in their culture: it is no coincidence that Santa Claus is seen to reside in Finland, and he remains above all a symbol of pagan lore. The flying reindeer and red face of Santa both point to the magic mushrooms of the Arctic forests, and the tinsel we fondly decorate the Christmas tree with is representative of semen, fertilising nature.

Of course the Christmas tree itself is the strongest symbol of the European pagan ‘World Tree’, with it northern star at the top. Indeed, European paganism is truly a religion of the forest.

Outside of Europe, and in the context of paganism as the worship of nature, or closeness with nature, Japan would be definable as a pagan nation, with Shintoism being essentially the worship of nature. How this happy religion, and its joy of nature became also a religion of self sacrifice and suicide with the kamikaze suicide pilots of WWII is hard to fathom, but all religions have been subverted in the course of their history, most tragically European paganism itself being somewhat sourced by the Nazis, and their veneration of forests and nature equalling purity. Perhaps more specifically in the use of runic writing on uniforms of shock troops, as well as the Indian swastika, itself notionally paganistic.

Along with Japan, Mongolia’s nomads venerate nature, and Kazakhstan next door have long debated making Tengriism, the Turkic/Asian pagan religion/belief, the state religion. Indeed, Kazakhstan’s small neighbour, Kyrgystan is the only country with a ‘paganistic’ flag: the number 40 holds significance in Tengriism, and the flag’s sun/hut has forty rays. In fact Kyrgystan itself means ‘land of the forty.’

Flag of Kyrgystan

The populations of two countries who hold large festivals about nature — the Latvian Līgo and Estonian Jaanipäev festivals celebration of the summer Solstice being the best example, are in my mind the most intensely and actively pagan. Both countries have forests covering approximately 50% of their territory and an almost sacred connection ‘their’ nature.

Līgo

In truth, many areas of Eastern Europe, such as Ukraine, Romania and Bulgaria retain many pagan traditions.

Summer Solstice in Romania

In terms of worship of nature, with 20% of Estonians recognising Maausk as the ‘true’ religion of Estonia, a philosophy venerating nature, in particular trees, and ancestors. There are echoes of Shintoism in this, while cloth tied to trees is found also in Nepal.

Hanging small coloured messages from trees in Estonia, very similar to the tengriistic custom in Kazakhstan

one metre from my door
my most dependable allies
provide shade and shelter
my walls, table and stool
my floor, perfume and view

Estonia — most pagan nation

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A.H. Starlingsson
From my Forest

—dispatches from Ukraine🌲currently writing "Distant Taps The Woodpecker," contact: kuldiga.1@gmail.com_